Geneva watchmaking of excellence Charles Zuber, the timeless Perfos watch appears in turquin blue
Luminous, the Perfos collection designed by Eric Giroud, the most architect-oriented of watch designers, is inhabited by a specific automatic mechanical micro-rotor caliber. Today, Charles Zuber introduces an iridescent silver-blue dial.
Pure, aesthetic and definitely modern, the Perfos automatic watch launched in the heart of the summer of 2019 comes with a blue dial on a leather strap at the beginning of 2020.
Perfos, a timepiece rooted in its time
Swiss watchmaking from Geneva is diverse. Among the key signatures, Charles Zuber
is inspired by a humble and behind-the-scenes jeweller recognized by his peers for having crafted incredible haute-horlogerie pieces for the most prestigious Swiss watch brands during his lifetime. The Perfos collection, an elegant and subtle automatic watch, appears resolutely forwardlooking. Featuring a dial variation with a deep blue tone, this version offers an almost photographic hue.
The Perfos collection embodies the fundamentals of traditional watchmaking, where the boundaries between aesthetic quest and functionalism are disappearing, where the levels of refinement are the result of rare expertise performed without concession. By entrusting Eric Giroud, one of the most renowned names in watch design, with the creation of the Perfos aesthetic envelope, Charles Zuber’s associates have decided to add a touch of both contemporaneousness and desire to this stunning piece. “Eric Giroud had the idea of building a three-part case for the Perfos, without straight lines, to offer it a flat bezel and a festival of curves. Because we have deliberately chosen an evolutive posture that rejects the single product logic.» The challenge was to offer an alternative to the four to five models of shaped watches that have been revolving in a loop for 40 to 50 years. By shaped watches are meant those models that face away from the ambient roundness.
The unbelievable complexity of the dial
Perfos watch dials offer a luminous harmony born of the rays of a stylized sun. Their three-part structure is incredibly complex. There is the baseplate, the platen on which 60 bevelled indexes have been milled. Then, a micron perforated plate with bluish galvanic depths is snapped into place, highlighting the relief of the round-the-hour circle.
Perfos Line, powerful, assertive and timeless
This collection by Charles Zuber allows you to look it straight in the eye, without lowering your gaze. Reassuring, it fits on the wrist like a statutory marker kneaded with assurance and comfort. Easily recognizable, even from a far away, it challenges you, over its rather well-made silhouette, to unravel the mystery of its subtle accomplishments.
Chronometry values, an exclusive in-house caliber
The Perfos is powered by a shape manufacture caliber, the Calibra 01. It is a micromechanical system specific to Charles Zuber, with automatic winding by a bidirectional micro-rotor. A three-hand watch movement (164 components) that meticulously follows the non-round shape of the case and which, through the transparent case-back of the model, shows its belonging to a fine watchmaking industry
proud of its fundamentals: blued screws, many decorative attentions, such as these sunny patterns in a wink to the dial, worked even on surfaces that are not visible to the eye.
Charles Zuber Perfos timepieces
Universal, iconic, the Perfos is inhabited by a Manufacture shaped caliber, the Calibra 01. Its case is sleek, powerful, full of contrasts, its dial, particularly recognizable, is distinguished by its ultra-complexity, synonymous with uncompromising elegance.
Hours, minutes, off-centre seconds in the upper vertical of the 6 o’clock position.
SHAPED MOVEMENT (NON-ROUND)
Made entirely in Switzerland, the Calibra 01 is a socalled Manufacture caliber, i.e. specific to the Charles Zuber Genève brand. Self-winding mechanical, bidirectional micro-rotor. 28,800 oscillations per hour, i.e. a frequency of 4 Hertz. Power reserve 38 hours. 164 components including 33 rubies. Traditional blued screws, rhodium-plated, sunny embellishments even in non-eye-visible surfaces. Shaped movement 4.20 mm thick, carefully following the dimensions of the square box with its rounded edges. Inside dimensions 29.60 mm x 29.60 mm.
The so-called “sandwich” construction, with three interlocking parts, is perfect for mixing materials. Angled circumference, alternating polished and matt faces. Materials: steel, titanium, three gold colours, pink, yellow and white. Plural combinations with the 5 dial nuances and leather strap options.
TIME SETTING ROD
In the guise of an old jewelLery setter’s tool, a subtle evocation by Vincent Perego to the work of master jeweller Charles Zuber.
Ultra sophisticated, with no compromises, either on a black background with rhodium-plated grey indexes, or on a white background with pure black piano key indexes. Highest precision in manufacturing the 60 indexes (triangular furrows in relief), secured to the dial base that a second laser cut-out plate covers: each of the apertures perfectly matches the indexes. A meticulous work of art in love with micron precision.
Ethical alligator leather from the noblest source. Also available in steel version: technological challenge, perfect integration of the strap into the case. In the world of excellence watchmaking, the finishing of the links of the bracelet in keeping with the spirit of the case is a high complication.
Key data for Charles Zuber Charles Zuber is a high jewelry brand based on the values and know-how of a late master jeweller. The Compagny has restored Geneva and its historic jewelry tradition at the heart of current events and on the world’s markets. During his lifetime, recognized by his peers, Charles Zuber managed to produce legendary jewelry watches for the most prestigious watch brands. Swiss Made, ethical in the careful choice and traceability the materials used as well as the precious and the semi-precious gemstones, the Charles Zuber signature launched under the impetus of Vincent Perego with two other co-founders, Mohammed Hilal and Aram Garabetian, also has a high level watchmaking dimension.
Watchmaking history, the Cabinoters In Geneva’s history, the word cabinotier was not only used to refer to watchmakers. It also applied to goldsmiths whose craft skills were closely linked to watchmaking abilities. These independent craftsmen, each in their own cabinet, used to receive the watches from that time in order to practice their specific talents. This was the philosophy of the Horizontal Manufacture, the antithesis of certain current corporate models that promote a vertical approach.